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CLIMBING IN THE CAUCASUS

The Caucasus range of mountains lie in the southern part of Russia, stretching for 880 kilometres between the Black Sea in the West and the Caspian Sea in the East. They form a mountainous divide between Europe and Asia although the mountain range lies almost wholly within the former Soviet Union. On the South (Asian) side are the states of Georgia and Azerbyjan and on the North (European) side lie several other republics. The range is divided into three sections: Central, Western and Eastern.

The Western Caucasus begins as a low ridge at the mouth of the Don River and has Mt. Dombay-Ulgen (4046m) as its highest point. Mt. Belalakaja (3861m) the “Matterhorn of the Caucasus” is one of the attractions. The climate here is warmer and climbing less severe than in the other regions of the Caucasus.

The Central Caucasus rises between Mt. Elbrus and Mt. Kazbek (5047m) and is the highest and most glaciated part of the Caucasus. All the five thousanders of the Caucasus are found here. The most popular summits lie in the Elbrus region (Ushba, Shkhelda Towers, Chatyn-Tau, Dongoruzun). Elbrus itself is a massive twin summited volcano; the West summit at 5642m is considered the highest mountain in Europe with the East summit only a little lower at 5621m. Although technically easy (French PD+, Russian 2B), the weather can change very rapidly and whiteouts and high winds are quite common. High winds can be a problem as the summit is 1500 - 2000m higher than the surrounding mountains. The classical route up Elbrus is relatively safe although there are stretches which can be very icy and/or exposed. It is possible to wander off-route to the heavily crevassed South West face during a whiteout.

The Eastern Caucasus stretches from Mt Kazbek eastwards. It is less often visited either Russian or Western climbers.

Elbrus Route Description

From the village of Terskol, one usually takes a bus to the cable car station “Azau”. A 2-stage cable car ride will take you to 3500m to station “Mir” where there is a chair lift. The chair lift may or may not be working and is in a state of disrepair. From there, one either takes the chair lift or walks 1h up a well defined path to the Garaboshi (Barrels) refuge at 3780m. Many people spend a night here as part of their acclimatisation. From here it used to be a 90 minute to 2h walk to the Priutt Hut at 4200m. The Priutt Hut has since burnt to the ground in a fire on August 16th this year. Some climbers (and now all climbers) will either have to camp at the level of the Priutt Hut and make their summit attempt from there or stay in the Garaboshi refuge and starting from a lower point. As it is the altitude gain on summit day from the Priutt Hut was about 1400m, to add nearly 500m more makes it a very long summit day indeed. Most climbers would have spent some days acclimatising on the mountains nearby and a final acclimatisation hike is usually up to the Pashtokov Rocks the day before summit attempt.

Most parties will start out between 1 - 3 am and walk up between 2 parallel rocky ridges towards to Eastern summit, passing the Pashtokov Rocks at 4900m along the way. The slopes are about 30° at this point and becomes a little steeper near the Rocks. It usually takes about 2 - 3h from the Priutt to the Rocks. The stretch above the rocks can be very icy and treacherous and many climbers have accidents on the descent. The route from the Rocks to the Saddle between the East and West summits is marked with poles (few and far between). From about 500m, one starts traversing along the slopes of the East summit to reach the saddle at 5200m. It is a very long traverse which seems to go one forever.

At the saddle, there are remains of a small hut at most parties stop and rest here for a quick bite and drink of water. On a good day, the views are fantastic, with views to the Northern plains and south to the rest of the Caucasus. In bad weather, it is a very exposed area with winds sweeping over at 50 - 80kph and it is very easy to descend on to the “wrong” side and end up in Georgia as one British climbing party did in 1993.

From the Saddle, the route goes up 45° snow slopes, usually with firm snow although some sections can again be very icy. The slopes are very exposed with long runouts onto rocks thousands of feet below. Time taken from the saddle to the West summit is approximately 90min - 2h in good climbing conditions. The route goes up the final slopes of the West summit before skirting round the crater rim to finish on a broad summit plateau ( on which on can get lost in a whiteout ). The summit is gained after one puffs up a final steep icy cone of 40 - 50°. The ping pong table-sized summit is now marked with a stainless steel plaque with inscriptions in Cryllic. Total time for the climb ( including descent ) ranges from 7 - 12h.

- Shani Tan

 

Climbing Elbrus - practical tips

1. Most people will climb Elbrus from the Russian side. You will need to get a Russian Visa. To do so, you will have to indicate ALL the places that you will be visiting, the hotels that you will be staying in etc. as each place will stamp your visa and confirm that you have stayed there. You will also need proof that your transport and accommodation within Russia has been arranged and paid for.

2. Climbing Permit for Elbrus is gotten from the Mountain Rescue Service at Terskol, the village at the head of the Baksan Valley at the bottom of Elbrus.

3. The easiest way to get to Terskol is to fly from Moscow to Mineralnye Vody and then take a 4 hour bus ride to Terskol. If you are not with an organised climbing group, then you should purchase all your food from Mineralnye Vody as it is very difficult to buy food in Terskol.

4. Be warned that almost no one speaks English in these regions ( and that includes hotel staff ) - bring a phrase book along.

5. Bearing in all the above points - it would be much easier to get in touch with a local Russian agency to facilitate all the transport, visa, food and accommodation arrangements. ( cheaper via local agency than over the counter rates for walk in customers )

6. Change your US dollars into Roubles in Moscow - it is very difficult to do so in Terskol, and all local purchases have to be in roubles. Credit cards are not accepted.

7. Accomodation in Terskol : there are some comfortable hotels - Cheget, Itkol and Wolfram. They may seem a little run down by Western standards but all have electricity and running water. Hot water may be available only at certain times of the day and meals have to be pre ordered (every one in the hotel eats practically the same food).

 

Read Shani Tan's account of her 1998 climb on Elbrus.

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