Climbing Volcanoes in Indonesia
I organised a three week trip to Indonesia in 1986. Main purpose of this trip was to climb several famous volcanoes in Java and Bali. Merapi was the first volcanoe we climbed. Most of the climbing has to be done at night in order to avoid the heat of the day. We started at 2am and reached the summit just after day break. Besides climbing volcanoes, we had plenty of opportunity to learn about the country and its people. Indonesians outside of the main cities are very friendly and we often got help from strangers to find our way or look for accomodation or food. Indonesia is a beautiful country. The countryside is full of activity. Rice fields are in abundance and neatly cultivated terrace fields are very scenic.
The ascent of Semeru (about 4000m) was the highlight of our trip. As you can see from the picture, Semeru is an active volcanoe. Every half-an-hour, with clockwork regularity, she blows her top. When we were near the summit, the eruption is really spectacular to watch. It takes 4 days to do a complete climb of Semeru. You need to be completely self-sufficient during this period. Hiring a local guide to lead the way is highly recommended. The other major peak that we climbed was Agung in Bali. It was a really tough climb. We started at midnight and only reached the top at around 9 o'clock the next morning. We only got back down at 3pm - a fifteen hour round trip. Strangely, we recovered our energy after just a short rest and even had the energy to arrange for a bemo to take us back to town the same evening.
In June 1997 I returned to Indonesia after a break of 11 years. Main purpose of this trip was to climb Rinjani (3700m) in Lombok and also to repeat the climb up Agung. Rinjani is a hugh volcano that dominates the island of Lombok, which is East of Bali. It can be seen from everywhere on the island. Trekking agencies can be engaged at the village of Senaru to provide porters and guides for the 5 day climb up the volcano. Information on the route can be obtained from most guidebooks on Lombok. It is a interesting and enjoyable climb and well worth the effort.
There is a series of hot springs and a gigantic crater lake to enjoy during the climb. The summit attempt has again to be made at 2am from the last campsite on the upper rim of the volcanoe.
Reach the top at daybreak to enjoy a stupendous view of the entire island and several more islands adjacent to Lombok, including Sumbawa.
Descend from Rinjani in the increasing heat of the morning sun and enjoy the views that you miss on the way up as the climb was done in the dark.
After Rinjani, we took a short flight to Bali to climb Agung. In the intervening 11 years there has been much development at the village of Bersakil at the foot of Agung. Many more shops have sprung up and the village is no longer so remote and quiet. It guiding services here are very commercialised. You need to bargain very hard to bring the fee down. We started at 11pm for the ascent. By 4am we had reached the rocky shelter just before the series of ridges that mark the upper part of Agung. Here we rested an hour, huddled together in the early morning cold. By 8am, we were at the top and enjoyed a hearty breakfast of chocolate, biscuits and nuts.
Kerinci (3805m) March 2003
In March 2003, I made my third trip to Indonesia joining a
trip organised by the Singapore Adventurers' Club. We fly to Padang from Batam
and took a six-hour bemo ride up and down winding country roads to the town of
Kesik Tuo (1500m) at the base of the impressive looking Kerinci. The climb took
two full days and was quite tough - definitely not for novice climbers/trekkers.
On the first day, we climbed up to 3200m and camped just below the tree line.
This campsite is very windy and cold at night. Next morning, we climbed for two
hours in very strong wind to reach the top. Some members took about 2.5 hours
for the climb. The descent from the top back to the highcamp took between 45
minutes and 1.5 hours depending on individual ability in handling steep slopes.
From the camp is it a long 3 to 4 hours to get back to the bottom.
There is very little water at the highcamp and you are well
advised to carry 3 litres of water for the climb. This, together with food and
other gear makes for a rather heavy rucksack which makes the climb all the more
difficult. Less fit members may want to hire a porter to carry for them.
A side trip from Kesik Tua brought us up to a high volcanic
lake aptly called the Seven Hills (as the lake at an altitude of 2000m is
surrounded on all sides by these 7 hills). It is indeed a pristine lake, so
peaceful and calm, and the water is crystal clear but very cold.
We also took the opportunity to visit some of the local
sights and mingle with the locals. Not many tourists visit Western Sumatra and
everywhere we went, we were treated so well and given full attention - the pace
of life here is so unhurried that everyone has time for you. The morning market
at Sungei Penuh, about an hour's drive from Kesik Tuo is worth visiting. You can
shop to your heart's delight here at prices that are only a small fraction of
those back home.
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